Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Cadiz to Cordoba


21 April


The day of Sarah’s significant birthday dawned bright and sunny.  I had hoped to buy Sarah a nice locally crafted card but the Spanish don’t seem to do cards. Fortunately I found something suitable in Marks & Spencer in Marbella. Not original but any port in a storm.

We decided to go on a walk, which turned out to be about 9 miles – good going for us.  We walked through pine woods and along the coast between Barbate and Conil de la Fontera. There were some fine views including Cabo de Trafalgar. Yes this is where the great battle was fought.  (According to a bloke we met in Gibraltar, they took Nelsons body back to Gibraltar, pickled his body in rum and then sailed him back home. What a way to go?)
 
The car parking area had a small bar – just for coffee and ice cream we thought, but when we got back to the car the place was packed with people having Sunday lunch.  Some had walked, some had come on horses and some had arrived by car.  We had a BBQ in the evening.

22 April


Went down on the beach for a few hours day.  It was quite windy but if you got tucked in amongst the rocks it was quite sheltered.   We dipped our toes in the sea and kept our swimming costumes on but decided against going in any further!!! Yes this was a naturist beach with several elderly couples letting everything flop about. One woman almost poked her eye out when running towards the sea. I did however eventually persuade Sarah to take her………. cardigan off.

Back up on the cliffs Barry took some more pictures of the wild flowers as he had forgotten his tele photo lens to get some snaps of the bathers.

23 April


Moved to Seville.  Well near Seville, a place called Dos Hermanas which is to Seville what Selby is to York. The campsite (Camping Vilsom) is not great – crammed in like sardines.  Actually, we were quite lucky and managed to get a pitch which enabled us to accommodate the car and caravan. The pitch was about the size of 2 disabled car parking spaces end to end. We decided against having a barbecue due to the fire risk. Sadly this is the only campsite serving Seville so the owners don’t need to try very hard.  It was quite busy.  The plus side was that the internet link was much quicker so we could actually get things done. We were hoping that we’d be able to relax for a few hours next to the swimming pool. Sadly the pool had not been maintained since last summer and was full of green water. I’m sure that a recognised a man I had seen in Morocco and suspect that he was trying to buy the water so that he could pass it off as mint tea in Tangier or at least water his camels.

In the evening I took Sarah for a belated birthday meal. It was either a MacDonald’s  or a place similar to ‘Frankie and Bennys’. As we could not translate the menu we went next door. It was after ordering a couple of pizzas that we realised that the food came from the same kitchen as the place next door. The only difference was we had round pizzas where as next door they had rustic bread in a square shape. Sarah enjoyed her meal which was a bargain. Two large pizzas and a bottle of Rioja for 15 euros.  I hope to find a branch somewhere near home for next year.

When we returned to the caravan I sat on the step to cool down and have a beer (There wasn’t room for a chair). I’d been there is few minutes when the bathroom blind of the caravan next door opened to reveal and elderly topless lady who opened her window wider.  I’m not sure if she saw me or not. She didn’t scream and nor did I.

24 April


Took the bus into Seville.  Found our bearings and had some lunch.  Then we visited the Cathedral.  It is apparently the biggest Church in the world. It has a Guinness Book of Records certificate on display to prove it!  It has a beautiful tower, from which there was a magnificent view across the roofs of Seville.  
 
We then went to find the Casa Pilatos, a mansion in the Jewish quarter that is allegedly modelled on the home of Pontius Pilate.   It is free on a Wednesday afternoon to EU citizens and it seemed a lot of people knew this, so there was quite a queue. (A queue, we were waiting for over an hour in blistering heat. Just to see a crumbling time share – Barry)  However, it was lovely inside with colourful tiling, plasterworks and patios.

In the evening when we got to bed it got so hot that Sarah said that she could hardly breathe. We opened as many windows as we could without denting the caravans parked around us. This did not make much difference so I suggested she take her pyjamas off. She refused on the basis that she couldn’t possibly sleep in the nude with a Frenchman sleeping less than 3 feet away.

25 April


Today we decided to take the open top bus trip around Seville and see the areas we might not otherwise of ventured to.  Our first hop off the bus was in the Macarena district.  We went into what we thought was a fairly run of the mill Church from the outside, but were greeted with a very lavish interior.  We wondered through the area, stopping for lunch at a tapas bar.   That was entertaining to say the least.   Ordering was difficult and what arrived didn’t bear much resemblance to what we ordered, but it tasted good.  We got off the bus again near the bull ring, walked along the river bank a little and over the bridge into the Trianna district.   This was famous for the ceramics produced there and there was evidence here and there in the back streets of tiling on the houses and also shops selling ceramics, though being afternoon they were shut.  We ended the day with a walk through the Maria Louise gardens and viewed some of the pavilions built for the Spanish Americas Fair in the 1920’s and finally the Plaza de Espana, built as the centre piece for the Fair to exhibit industry and crafts.  It is a vast semi-circular building of stairways, fountains and mass of tile work.  I cannot begin the describe it so see the picture below.

26 April


The Alcazar or Royal Palace was to be our main focus for today.   The Alcazar is a Moorish palace and was an absolute masterpiece of tiling and plaster work.   The colours and patterns were breath taking.  The many rooms built around patios with cool pools and gurgling fountains.   You could certainly imagine living there in the cool shaded patios or gardens during the baking summer heat.   It was quite hot today – about 29 degrees, but very pleasant in the palace.  Sarah’s Dad had recommended the audio guide and it was well worth it.   Definitely a must on anyone’s to see list.

27 April


Moved on to Cordoba today.  Temperature has reduced drastically and it is raining!!!  The campsite (Camping Albolafia) in the village of Villafranca de Cordoba is very peaceful but we are unable to do our laundry as the drier has broken down and it’s too wet and cold to hang anything out. We are hoping for a sunny day before we fly back.

The site seems to have a lot of rules. Mainly a list of things you can’t do This includes:

·         Bury pots drums or containers.

·         Modify the shape of any plot

·         Be accompanied by animals which could be dangerous

·         Admit others to the campsite without paying 4 euros per person

·         Make connections to taps

28 April


Raining and cold today but drove into Corboda to get our bearings and have some lunch. I sort of guessed the way to the tourist information office and ended up driving up streets which were so narrow I had to pull in the wing mirrors. Those of you who know Sarah’s lack of appetite for risk will probably guess at her reaction. I tried to lighten the mood by saying it would have been worse if we’d been towing the caravan but this had little effect.

 Just to illustrate the fact that this tour is not all sights, barbecues and wine you should know that we spent most of the day driving around looking for a lavanderia or laundry. We never found one.

29 April


Our Wedding Anniversary. Once again I had hoped to find a suitable card here in Spain but….. Fortunately there was a Hallmark card shop in Gibraltar selling really naff cards with verses. Not ideal but……it saved the day.

Raining again and only 10 degrees.  Back in jeans, jumpers and waterproofs. 

Today I asked the girl in reception if she could print the boarding cards for the flight back. She said no. Why I asked? Then she mumbled a lot, went to the printer, took out the print cartridge, banged it on the counter and said “because the boss will not buy a new one”. Immediately I could see why the laundry dryer was not going to get fixed anytime soon.

After eventually paying a visit to the local library, where they do have a printer with ink, and printing my documents we set off for La Mezquita.  

The Mezquita is a huge mosque in Cordoba which in 1523 had a Christian Cathedral built in the middle of it.  The Mosque has 19 naves supported by hundreds of marble columns stopped with double red and white brick arches.   I am struggling to find suitable adjectives to describe this building, but it is like nothing else we have ever seen.   Its sheer size is staggering and despite the symmetry everywhere you stand give a different view – like looking through different windows – quite amazing. Even Barry was impressed.

Sarah was so overcome she had to have a hot chocolate and cake. Afterwards we went to Carrefour ( a big French supermarket chain who are well established here). We have done almost all our shopping here and I now regret not joining their clubcard scheme.

The showers here aren’t too bad but I am thinking of putting in a compensation claim for RSI. There are no taps just those bloody buttons you keep having to push. I had to push mine so often my wrist started aching.

30 April


Today we visited the Alcazar in Corboda, as the guide book said the buildings are a bit dreary, but the gardens were well worth a visit with lovely pools and water features and very effective colour combinations in the flower beds. 

We also walked over the foot bridge to the opposite bank of the River and had a wander around more of the back streets and Plazas.   Everywhere was gearing up for the Festival of the crosses which is tomorrow in which every square will have a red cross made from flowers at its centre – a bit like our Derbyshire well dressings but with Tapas and wine. Today Sarah insisted on paying a second visit to a cake shop she found yesterday.  Actually we went twice.  In the morning for coffee and a chocolate croissant and again in the afternoon for hot chocolate and cake. We have boosted their profits so much this week that we have been invited to the staff Xmas party…..at least that’s what I think he said.

Sarah has just been to order some bread for tomorrow to be told it will not arrive until 12.30 because it is a holiday in all of Spain. Sounds like a day to do the washing.

It has been decided that we will eat something plain tonight without garlic in order to prepare our appetites for the UK. Choice was limited. We have had oven chips, egg and beans.

1st May


We have decided to stay on site today to avoid the Bank Holiday crowds. Sarah checked in the first lot of laundry at 9am and will collect it at 11am and deliver a second load at the same time. All the other sites we have stayed at have washing machines you operate yourself with a token that costs about 4 euros. This site takes your laundry from you to do it themselves. The cost is 8 euros. A right rip off.

As not much will happen today I have decided to have a rant about Spain’s economy. Forget everything you read at home about cutbacks and demonstrations. This place is booming. The Spanish seem to be the masters of job creation. When I visited a small Michelin depot with a flat tyre there were about 6 men all working well. In the small office were 2 women who appeared to do nothing but take the money and process the credit cards. I was there for an hour and one of them took my payment but did nothing else.

And don’t talk to me about the banks. There must be at least one bank branch for every ten people in the country. They’re all over the place.

When we were in the small town of Ronda (Population circa 20,000) they were building a huge new hospital. For whom I have no idea. In Marbella they were extending one of the three existing hospitals. In Seville there were 3 quite new very large hospitals.

The rail network is incredible and expanding everywhere. They don’t refresh a station they just build a new one on a new line elsewhere. They have fantastic new trains too.

The motorway network is impressive with recently built tunnels and fantastic high level bridges which can only be dreamt of in the UK. If this is austerity I think we should have some.

There is evidence that some small businesses have closed down but the overall feel is one of confidence and investment in infrastructure. There are a few beggars on the street but I’m talking about seeing 3 or 4 a day. Nothing like the number of people you see sleeping rough in London or Manchester.

As we fly back tomorrow (Thursday 2nd May) this will be our last blog until we return on 9th May. We will by flying Ryanair and Sarah has been busy measuring bags to ensure that the comply with Mr O’leary’s strict rules. Hopefully we’ll be home by 10pm.

 

PS. Readers should know that Sarah has been writing these blog things so far. (She writes them under my name as she doesn’t know how the blog thing works). So, I have decided that they are a bit dry and lack the everyday detail which you deserve to know. So, Sarah does the sightseeing stuff and I now add details important information about the daily grind. Hopefully this will appeal more to the Sun readers amongst you. (Apologies to the Telegraph readers – Mel, Jean and John).

Technical note: The pictures Included in the blogs have been rendered to a very small file size for uploading.  Readers who would like to purchase any pictures are assured that the full size quality file will be provided. Good rates for relatives and friends.

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